Dogs don’t have to chase cats! If introduced correctly, cats and dogs can learn to live quite peacefully in the same home. Follow these steps to ensure a positive introduction and to set your pets up for success!

Refresh your dog’s obedience skills

1. Make sure you can get your dogs attention.
   1. Say your dog’s name. As soon as he looks at you, give him some treats and praise him.
   2. Continue to do this with increased distractions. Will your dog still turn and look at you when a ball is rolling by? When a squirrel is outside the window?
2. Practice calm behaviors. These will help your dog relax in the presence of the new cat.
   1. Have your dog sit or lay down.
   2. Slowly extend the time your dog stays in either position. Begin with just a couple seconds before he gets his treat. Then increase the time to ten seconds, thirty seconds, and up to a minute.

Create a room for your new cat

1. Use a bedroom, bathroom, study, etc. Set it up with a litter box, food, and water. Your new cat will stay in this room for the first week or two. Make sure there is a closed door between the cat and dog.
2. Feed your new cat a couple of feet from the closed door. If she is eating comfortably, move the food closer to the door. Once she is eating near the door with the dog just on the other side, you can move to the next step.
3. Once your cat is comfortable, set up a baby gate in the door way. You can also tie the door open if you do not have a baby gate. This will allow the cat and dog to see each other without being able to chase or run.

The actual nose-to-nose introduction

1. This should not happen until your new cat has been in the home for several weeks.
2. When your animals are ready to meet, leash your dog so you can prevent him from chasing.
3. Ensure your cat has plenty of options to escape and/or hide.

Download guide to introducing your dog to a new cat

Guide to Mouthy Cats

Cats that are not otherwise aggressive sometimes become easily over stimulated and mouthy during play. These cats typically need a way to burn off excess energy. By burning off this energy, these cats will most often become calmer and play more appropriately.

Follow these steps to prevent your cat from being mouthy in the home:

• Keep your cat physically active.
  • Make sure to play with your cat 20-30 minutes every day. Wand toys are great for this!
  • Take your cat on a walk! Use a cat harness and leash.
    • Start off indoors.
    • Desensitize your cat to the harness. Put the harness on your cat and allow them to become acclimated to the feeling.
    • Once your cat is walking comfortably, attach the leash. Don’t try to guide the cat, simply allow the cat to walk on the leash and harness.
    • Now you can move outdoors! The sights, sounds, and smells are great mental stimulation for your cat.
• Keep your cat mentally stimulated.
  • Puzzle toys are a great way to keep your cat thinking. These can be purchased at a pet store or made at home. Here are some examples of homemade toys:
    • Clean pizza box with squares cut out of the top. Fill the box with toys and treats.
    • Clean cardboard egg carton with treats. Place treats in the compartments.
    • Crumple some treats in a piece of newspaper.
  • Positive reinforcement training is another great way to keep your cat mentally stimulated. Clicker training is the most effective way to train cats.
• Avoid “rough housing” with your cat.
  • Avoid using your hands to play with your cat. Use a toy instead.
  • Only cuddle with your cat when they are calm and unlikely to be mouthy.
  • If your cat becomes mouthy during petting, remove your hands and ignore your cat. Give them a puzzle toy or play with them using a wand toy.

If you have tried what is provided here and still have questions, contact

behaviorhelp@larimerhumane.org or call 970-226-3647 ext. 513

Guide to Carrying Cats

Some cats do not like to be carried and may show aggressive behaviors when picked up. These cats are not aggressive in nature, but need space and may need to be moved more slowly than other cats.

Follow these steps when you take your cat home:

• Allow your cat to come out of the carrier on their own terms. Simply place the carrier down and give your cat space to come out of the carrier.
• Avoid picking up your cat unless you need to.
• Encourage your cat to come to you and even to jump into your lap.

Follow these steps to help your cat feel more comfortable when being carried:

• Help your cat to feel more comfortable with being lifted.
  • Find a treat that your cat really likes. Wet cat food, tuna, and commercial cat treats usually work well.
  • Help your cat become used to the sensation of being lifted.
    • Touch your cat on the chest and then give some of those really tasty treats. If your cat feels uncomfortable, you may need to begin by touching your cats back.
    • Slowly move closer to your cat’s stomach, giving treats each time you touch your cat. Your cat should be in a standing position, not lying on their back.
    • Once you can place your hand under your cat, begin applying pressure. You should not actually be lifting your cat off the ground yet. As always, follow each touch with a tasty treat.
    • Begin lifting only your cat’s front paws off the ground, following each scoop with a treat.
    • Now you can begin lifting your cat off the ground for a split second.
  • Once your cat can be lifted a couple inches off the ground, you can begin lifting your cat progressively higher.
  • Keep sessions short, they should only last a minute or two.

If you have tried what is provided here and still have questions, contact

behaviorhelp@larimerhumane.org or call 970-226-3647 ext. 513

Download Guide to Carrying Cats

Guide to Cat Introductions

The key to successful cat introductions is TIME. Cats need time to become acclimated to each other and the idea of another cat in their space. The most overwhelming aspect of meeting a new cat is usually VISUAL. This means the cats should not actually see each other for SEVERAL WEEKS after the new cat is brought home.

Follow these tips to help set your cats up for success:

• Keep the cats separated with a closed door. It is most ideal to keep the new cat in a room and give the resident cat the rest of the home in the beginning. The new cat will be overwhelmed with new sights and smells, so only having one room to explore can help decrease stress.
• Feed the cats at the same time on either side of the door.
  • Start with the food bowls a couple feet away from the door.
  • Each day, move the food just a little closer to the closed door.
    • Keep in mind that if the cats don’t seem to care and keep eating their food normally, this is exactly what you want! Continue going slow.
    • Continue this until both cats are comfortably eating their food right next to either side of the closed door.
• During this time, scent swapping can be helpful.
  • Trade which cat is in the room and which cat has the rest of the home.
  • You can also rub each cat with a towel and then give the scented towel to the other cat.
• The next step will be to allow the cats to see each other without having access to each other.
  • This can be accomplished by setting up a baby gate.
  • You can also tie a door open so it only opens a crack.
• Once the cats can see each other, go back to feeding them several feet away from the door.
  • Each day, move the food just a little closer to the doorway.
    • Keep in mind that if the cats don’t seem to care and keep eating their food normally, this is exactly what you want! Continue going slow.
    • Continue this until both cats are comfortably eating their food right next to either side of the doorway.
• Once the cats are eating comfortably where they can see each other, they can then have access to each other.
• It is essential to ensure that the cats have escape routes so they can easily get away from the other cat it they wish.

If you have tried what is provided here and still have questions, contact

behaviorhelp@larimerhumane.org or call 970-226-3647 ext. 513

Guide to Litter Boxes and Feline House Soiling

There are many reasons a cat may not use the litter box. There are also many things you can do to alleviate this issue. Your cat will have better success in your home than anywhere else, so please try these tips before considering relinquishing your animal.

The most common reason cats stop using the litter box is MEDICAL. If your cat has stopped using the litter box, especially if they used it previously, take them to the vet! Your veterinarian will be able to rule out any medical issues that may be contributing to the avoidance of the litter box.

If your cat has been cleared medically and still does not use the litter box, follow these tips:

• Ensure there are enough litter boxes in the home.
  • A good rule of thumb is: one litter box per cat plus one.
  • There should be at least one litter box on each level of the home.
• Ensure the litter boxes are being cleaned on a regular basis. Many cats do not like to use a dirty bathroom.
  • Litter should be scooped daily.
  • The entire box of litter should be changed at least once a month.
• Ensure the box is big enough.
  • Typically, the bigger the box, the better. The litter should be deep enough that your cat can dig without hitting the bottom.
• Find your cat’s preferences.
  • Some cats prefer different types of litter over others. Try a variety to see which type your cat likes the best.
  • Some cats prefer either covered or uncovered boxes.
  • Some cats prefer more privacy than others. Try placing a box that is out of the way or even hidden behind some type of barrier.
  • Try placing litter boxes in quiet places in the home, away from washing machines, etc.
• Environmental stress can also cause cats to not use their litter box. If your cat is constantly hiding or lives in fear from another cat or dog in the home, try to make them feel safer.
  • Provide your cat plenty of escape routes.
  • Provide your cat with vertical space. This can be done using cat trees, shelves, or anything else that allows the cat to be up high.
  • Be sure your cat is able to feel socially significant in the home. They should not be forced to hide away in order to feel safe. Give them a place where they can see what is going on without having to be a part of it.

If you have tried what is provided here and still have questions, contact

behaviorhelp@larimerhumane.org or call 970-226-3647 ext. 513

Download “Guide to Litter Boxes and Feline House Soiling”

Guide to Inappropriate Digging

Digging is a natural behavior for dogs. However, when property is destroyed, this natural behavior quickly becomes a problem. Follow these steps to prevent and correct destructive digging.

• Prevent your dog from digging
  • Prevent your dog from learning that digging in certain areas is rewarding (i.e. the garden, lawn, flower beds, etc).
  • Utilize a crate or dog-safe room to keep your dog out of trouble when you are not home. See the Guide to Crate Training for more information on how to crate train.
  • When you are home, keep an eye on your dog. If you are unable to supervise your dog, put him in his crate or dog-safe room.
  • Your dog should not be left unattended outdoors for extended periods of time.
• Give your dog an appropriate place to dig
  • Digging is a natural behavior for dogs, so eliminating digging altogether is not a reasonable expectation.
  • Create a sand/soil pit or designated area in your yard for your dog to dig.
  • Bury toys and treats in the pit so your dog learns that it is a rewarding place to dig. Make the items easy to find at first. As your dog gets better at finding the items, bury them deeper in the pit.
• Avoid punishing your dog for inappropriate digging
  • Punishing a dog after the fact will not teach your dog what they did wrong.
  • Even if a dog is caught in the act of inappropriate digging, punishment will likely only teach the dog that their owner is scary.
  • Punishment damages the relationship between dog and owner.

If you have tried what is provided here and still have questions, contact

behaviorhelp@larimerhumane.org or call 970-226-3647 ext. 513

Download “Guide to Inappropriate Digging”

Guide to Destructive Chewing

Chewing is a natural behavior for dogs. However, when property is destroyed, this natural behavior quickly becomes a problem. Follow these steps to prevent and correct destructive chewing.

• Prevent your dog from chewing inappropriate objects
  • Prevent your dog from learning that inappropriate objects feel good to chew (i.e. the couch, wooden furniture, leather shoes, etc).
  • Utilize a crate or dog-safe room to keep your dog out of trouble when you are not home. See the Guide to Crate Training for more information on how to crate train.
  • When you are home, keep an eye on your dog. If you are unable to supervise your dog, put him in his crate or dog-safe room.
• Make sure your dog has appropriate items to chew
  • Chewing is a natural behavior for dogs, so eliminating chewing altogether is not a reasonable expectation.
  • Purchase dog chew toys and reward your dog for chewing them. You can even smear the toys with peanut butter or meat flavored baby food to make the toys more enticing.
• Avoid punishing your dog for inappropriate chewing
  • Punishing a dog after the fact will not teach your dog what they did wrong.
  • Even if a dog is caught in the act of inappropriate chewing, punishment will likely only teach the dog that their owner is scary. This often results in dogs sneaking to other rooms to do their chewing.
  • Punishment damages the relationship between dog and owner.

If you have tried what is provided here and still have questions, contact

behaviorhelp@larimerhumane.org or call 970-226-3647 ext. 513

Download “Guide to Destructive Chewing”

Guide to Introducing your Cat to a New Dog

Dogs don’t have to chase cats! If introduced correctly, cats and dogs can learn to live quite peacefully in the same home. Follow these steps to ensure a positive introduce and to set your pets up for success!

• Create a room for your new dog
  • Use a bedroom, bathroom, study, etc. Set it up with food, water, and toys. Place a baby gate in the door way.
  • Your cat will continue to have access to the rest of the house.
• Let your cat set the pace
  • Don’t force your cat to interact with the dog. A cat’s natural curiosity will eventually bring them to meet.
  • Feel free to give the cat treats when she does choose to come closer to the dog. You can also treat your new dog for remained calm when the cat is nearby.
• Refresh your dog’s obedience skills
  • Make sure you can get your dogs attention.
  • Say your dog’s name. As soon as he looks at you, give him some treats and praise him.
  • Continue to do this with increased distractions. Will your dog still turn and look at you when a ball is rolling by? When a squirrel is outside the window?
• Practice calm behaviors. These will help your dog remain calm in the presence of the cat.
  • Have your dog sit or lay down.
  • Slowly extend the time your dog stays in either position. Begin with just a couple seconds before he gets his treat. Then increase the time to ten seconds, thirty seconds, and up to a minute.
• The actual nose-to-nose introduction
  • When your animals are ready to meet, leash your dog so you can prevent him from chasing.
  • Ensure your cat has plenty of options to escape and/or hide.

If you have tried what is provided here and still have questions, contact

behaviorhelp@larimerhumane.org or call 970-226-3647 ext. 513

Download “Guide to Introducing your Cat to a New Dog”

Guide to Fearful Dogs

Fearful dogs are special cases that require extra time and patience. Given the time, it is amazing to watch them come out of their shell and begin to build confidence. These dogs need a guardian that is willing to keep them feeling safe and out of harm. These dogs also require a quiet home where they can begin to build a relationship with their owner that is built around trust and security.

Follow these steps to help your fearful dog adjust to their new home:

• Don’t overwhelm your dog when you take them home.
  • Give your dog lots of time and space to explore their new surroundings. Do not pressure them to interact with you. Simply allow them to explore and become acclimated.
  • Introduce your dog to one family member at a time. Meeting multiple people at once can be very overwhelming.
• Find treats that your dog LOVES.
  • Use these treats to begin building a positive relationship with your dog.
  • Also use these treats to help your dog to feel more confident about anything they might find scary.
• Utilize positive reinforcement training ONLY with your fearful dog.
  • Avoid any training that involves punishment. This type of training will be confusing for your dog and they will be very unlikely to learn. Punishment will also damage the relationship and trust between you and your dog.
  • Instead, utilize positive reinforcement training. Reward the behaviors that you like and ignore the behaviors that you don’t like.
  • Clicker training will help your dog to learn quickly and will build confidence.
• Watch for dog’s body language closely for signs that they are overwhelmed. If they become overwhelmed, try to remove them from the situation. IT IS OK TO COMFORT YOUR FEARFUL DOG. Comforting them will not teach them to be fearful.
  • Subtle signs of stress and anxiety in dogs include having a furrowed brow, lip licking, yawning, pacing, moving very slowly, and not eating treats.
• Give your fearful dog as much choice as possible. Avoid backing them into a corner or forcing them to move through the house. Instead, encourage them using treats and praise.

If you have tried what is provided here and still have questions, contact

behaviorhelp@larimerhumane.org or call 970-226-3647 ext. 513

Download “Guide to Fearful Dogs”

Guide to Separation Anxiety

Congratulations on adopting the new member of your family! This particular dog has a history of possibly having Separation Anxiety. This handout will briefly explain what Separation Anxiety is and what you can do to help!

What is Separation Anxiety?

True Separation Anxiety is a serious behavioral problem that may require professional help. According to Patricia McConnell, Ph.D., “Separation Anxiety in dogs is a serious emotional problem, where the dog becomes panicked when his owner leaves… Severe Separation Anxiety is similar to a panic attack in humans… The dog behaves as though she is terrified and in extreme cases will risk life and limb to find her owner or someone else to pack up with.” A dog with Separation Anxiety will chew and dig near doors and windows in an attempt to follow the owner. House soiling will occur almost immediately after the owner leaves and will also be located near the doors and windows.

What isn’t Separation Anxiety?

Chewing furniture, whining, barking, or house soiling when the owner is gone does not mean a dog has Separation Anxiety. On their own, each of these behaviors is pretty typical of a common dog. Dogs that chew furniture are most likely bored. Dogs that bark are most likely barking at something outside. Dogs that house soil most likely are not potty trained. Most dogs will exhibit at least some of these behavior in the absence of their owner.

What can you do?

If a dog is chewing, barking, or house soiling, each of these problems can be managed by utilizing a crate when the owner is not home. Crates prevent dogs from chewing things they shouldn’t and having accidents in the home. Dogs can also be provided with chew toys and puzzle toys to keep them occupied during the day. Some dogs may need to be potty trained by rewarding the dog when he potties outside, and ignoring accidents that occur in the home.

If a dog is showing signs of true Separation Anxiety, seek professional help. A fantastic resource for Separation Anxiety is I’ll Be Home Soon! How to Prevent and Treat Separation Anxiety by Patricia McConnell, Ph.D.

If you have tried what is provided here and still have questions, contact

behaviorhelp@larimerhumane.org or call 970-226-3647 ext. 513

Download “Guide to Separation Anxiety”

Guide to Potty Training an Adult Dog

Potty training, as with almost all dog training is contextual. This means that even if a dog is potty trained in one home, this may not transfer to a new home. However, if a dog has been previously potty trained, they will most likely learn appropriate elimination very quickly! Follow these steps with your new dog to set yourself up for success:

1. Upon arriving home the first time with your new dog, WAIT for your dog to eliminate outdoors. Only go inside after your dog has eliminated.
2. Go outside with your dog and REWARD him for appropriate elimination. Use verbal praise and treats as soon as your dog has finished.
3. IGNORE accidents in the home. Make a mental note that your dog needs to go out more often and needs closer supervision in the home.
4. Utilize a CRATE when you are not home to watch your dog and prevent accidents in the home. Keeping your dog in a crate will prevent them from house soiling as well as chewing inappropriate items.

Please note: using any form of punishment in context with potty training can be detrimental to the process. Dogs do not understand the difference between “right and wrong” but they do learn the difference between “safe and unsafe”. A dog that has been punished for house soiling will quickly learn it is unsafe to eliminate when the owner is within view. This creates a dog that will not eliminate outdoors within view of the owner, but instead will wait for the chance to safely eliminate in an empty room in the home. If your dog has an accident in the home when you are not there to witness it, there is no way to correct this behavior. Delayed punishment for house soiling will not aid the potty training process and will heavily damage the relationship between the owner and the dog.

If you have tried what is provided here and still have questions, contact:

behaviorhelp@larimerhumane.org or call 970-226-3647 ext. 513

Download “Guide to Potty Training an Adult Dog”

Guide to Jumpy/Mouthy Behavior

Jumpy and mouthy behaviors are most commonly done as a dog plays or greets a person. These behaviors are not intended to cause harm; however, some very exuberant dogs can cause injury. These dogs should be monitored closely especially around children.

Follow these tips to keep you and your dog safe:

• Completely ignore your dog when they jump on you. Do not touch, talk to, or even make eye contact with your dog.
• Keep your dog on a leash when meeting new people. The leash should NOT be used to tug or pull your dog. The leash is only there to prevent your dog from getting close enough to a new person to jump.
• When people come over to your house, put your dog in a crate or bedroom as people enter the home. Once everyone is settled, bring your dog out on a leash to calmly greet everyone.
• Give your dog plenty to do! Most of these jumpy mouthy dogs are very high energy. Positive reinforcement training and puzzle toys are great ways to keep your dog’s mind active. Classes such as agility can also be a great way to burn off energy and have fun!

These training tips can help your dog to learn more appropriate behavior:

• Reward your dog for good behavior! If your dog keeps all four paws on the ground, toss him a tasty treat.
• Teach your dog to sit to greet.
  • Teach your dog to sit on cue. Practice “sit” in many different places with different people.
  • Ask your dog to sit when you come home. Be ready to pay off with a really tasty treat. The treat has to be a better reward than the opportunity to jump on you!
  • When your dog meets new people, tell the people that your dog must sit before they can pet him. Depending on the situation, you can ask for the sit yourself or have the stranger ask for the sit.
• Teach your dog a “default” behavior. A default behavior is basically your dog’s way of saying “please”.
  • Choose an easy behavior that your dog can do. Sit is often a good behavior for this.
  • Ask your dog to do the behavior before doing any enjoyable activity. For example:
    • Ask your dog to sit before going outside.
    • Ask your dog to sit before mealtimes.
    • Ask your dog to sit before leaving for a walk.
  • With practice, your dog will learn that sitting is the best way to get what he wants!

If you have tried what is provided here and still have questions, contact

behaviorhelp@larimerhumane.org or call 970-226-3647 ext. 513

Download “Guide to Jumpy/Mouthy Behavior”

Guide to Dog Introductions

Adopting a new dog is an exciting experience for you, your family, and your other dogs! It is essential to start the relationship between your dogs on a good note. It is not recommended to bring your resident dog to the shelter to meet a new dog. Many dogs are incredibly stressed by the shelter environment and may be aggressive toward other dogs due to the stress. Even more often, dogs do well together outside of the home, but in the home they may be more possessive of their space and become aggressive. Instead, introduce the dogs slowly and systematically. Just like any relationship, the dogs will need time for friendship to form and strengthen.

Follow these steps to set yourself, and your dogs, up for success.

• Do not take your new dog home in the same car as your resident dog. Leave your resident dog at home for the adoption and ride home.
• Introduce your new dog to your resident dog in an open, neutral space such as a yard. Avoid letting the dogs meet indoors, especially in the beginning. The close quarters remove the dogs’ ability to flee if they are feeling overwhelmed.
  • Clip a leash to the dogs’ collars. Use a flat buckle collar. Avoid using harnesses, slip leads, choke chains, gentle leaders, or anything else that will restrict the dogs’ movement.
  • Keep the leashes loose and allow the dogs to meet each other on their own terms. Only put tension on the leashes if you need to separate the dogs.
  • If one dog avoids the other, allow that dog to move away. Do not force the dogs on each other. If one or both dogs show aggression, separate them and try again later.
• Watch body language closely as the dogs investigate each other.
  • Watch for loose, wiggly body posture. This is a great sign that they are comfortable. Tails wags can be deceiving, just because the tail is wagging, does NOT mean the dogs are comfortable.
  • End the meeting if you see the dogs’ become fixated on each other or if their body posture becomes stiff. Also end the meeting if the dogs’ tails go straight up and twitch back and forth.
• Only allow the dogs to interact with each other when you are there to supervise them for the first couple of weeks. For at least the first week, allow the dogs to play outside, but keep them separated indoors.
• Always feed the dogs separately. Do not leave high value items lying around (i.e. rawhides, bones, treats).

If you have tried what is provided here and still have questions, contact

behaviorhelp@larimerhumane.org or call 970-226-3647 ext. 513

Download “Guide to Dog Introductions”

Guide to Crate Training

Crate training can be hugely beneficial to both you and your dog! When you are not home, keeping your dog in a crate will keep him out of trouble by preventing him from having accidents in the home or engaging in destructive chewing. Don’t worry, most dogs learn to love their crates!

Here are some tips to help your dog learn that the crate is a great place to be.

• Teach your dog to go into the crate. DO NOT FORCE YOUR DOG INTO THE CRATE. Instead, toss a treat in the crate. Even if he just stick his nose in, great! Keep tossing treats further into the crate until your dog walks in all the way.
• Once your dog is confidently walking into the crate, begin tossing in tons of tiny treats. Toss them in one after the other, rapid fire! Your dog will quickly learn that the crate is a great place to be.
• By now your dog should be excited for the chance to go into the crate. At this point you can give treats more slowly, only dropping in a few when he goes into the crate.
• You can now begin to close the door of the crate. Close the door several inches and toss treats in the kennel rapid fire. Open the door and stop tossing treats. Close the door a little more and give rapid fire treats again. Continue until you can close the door all the way. This will teach your dog that treats come when the door is closed.
• Now it’s time to add duration to the crate. Find a puzzle toy or rawhide. Wait for your dog to go in the crate, and then offer puzzle toy. Walk several paces from the crate and then return. Your dog should still be engaged in the chew toy. Upon your return, trade him for the toy (do NOT just take the toy). Your dog will actually be disappointed that you returned. Continue this process until you can leave the room for several minutes with a calm, relaxed dog in the crate.

Guidelines for using the crate:

• Your dog’s crate should be large enough for him to be able to stand up and turn in a complete circle. The crate should not be much larger than this. (Crates that are too large give your dog the chance to potty in one corner and sleep in the other.)
• Your dog should always have access to water. Be sure to keep a bowl with water in the crate.
• An adult dog can stay in the crate for up to eight hours in a day. However, a dog that is crated needs plenty of physical exercise to keep them healthy. If possible, try to only crate your dog for about 5 hours at a time.
• Puppies cannot spend this much time in a crate. Follow this formula for a rule-of-thumb: [puppy’s age in months + 1 = number of hours he can stay in a crate]
• Keep the crate in a quiet place. Do NOT place the crate near a window (watching animals, dogs, and people go by can be very frustrating for a dog). Use a plastic crate or wire crate with a blanket/ sheet draped over the top.

If you have tried what is provided here and still have questions, contact

behaviorhelp@larimerhumane.org or call 970-226-3647 ext. 513

Download “Guide to Crate Training”